The Membrane
I had been on the hillside for three days before I played.
Three days of silence, which is to say three days of hearing everything the silence contains — the wind through the pines, the particular percussion of a woodpecker working somewhere in the tree line, the distant sound of the city that I could see in the evenings as a smear of light on the underside of the clouds. Vancouver. My Vancouver. Still there, still running, still narrating itself in the Mayor’s voice. I had fled it on foot with a pack and a recorder and the vague intention of not being found, and I had climbed until the city was only light and noise at a sufficient distance to be almost beautiful, and I had sat down on the hillside and waited for something to become clear.
Nothing became clear. That is not how clarity works, in my experience. Clarity is not a thing that arrives. It is a thing you back into, slowly, while facing the wrong direction.
On the third night I could not sleep. The cold came down from the tree line around two in the morning with the focused intention of a thing that knows exactly what it wants, and I lay in my sleeping bag listening to the city hum distantly below and thinking about the Mayor’s face on the evening news, that careful righteous face, the way he had said the word predator with the precision of a man who has practiced saying it until it sounds spontaneous. I thought about the clipboard. The three paragraphs. The apologetic manager. I thought about the man in cargo shorts at Chichén Itzá dancing against his will, and whether his frightened face was different in any meaningful way from the faces of the people I had moved through the streets of Vancouver, and I decided, lying there in the dark, that the difference was one of degree and not of kind, and that this made me exactly what the Mayor had called me, which was the most unbearable thought I had yet managed to think.
I got up. I took the recorder out of my pack — not unwrapping it this time, not bothering with the ritual of the cloth and the knot, just taking it out the way you take out something you have finally decided to stop pretending you are not going to use. I stood on the hillside in the dark with the city glowing below me and the tree line black behind me and I put the recorder to my lips.
I played for no one. For the dark, for the pines, for the distant smear of light.
I stood on the hillside and played, and the hillside opened.
Not explosively. Not with theatre. The way a door opens when someone on the other side has been waiting with their hand on the latch: a seam appeared in the rock and earth of the slope, a vertical line that widened as I played into a passage roughly the height of a person and half as wide, and through it came warm air. Not Vancouver winter air. Something else entirely — the specific warmth of a latitude far south of here, carrying on it the smell of salt water and night-blooming flowers and something older beneath those, something mineral and deep, the smell of limestone and dark water and centuries of sediment.
I stopped playing. The passage stayed open.
I stood at its edge for a long time. Long enough that the cold came back and the city resumed its distant hum and an owl called once from somewhere in the tree line. The passage stayed open. Through it I could see, dimly, the suggestion of another landscape — not the hillside’s pine and rock but something lower and warmer, a darkness that was a different quality of dark, a tropical dark full of sound rather than silence.
I thought about the cenote. The specific courage of whoever had carried Xpiyacoc’s recorder to the edge of that water long ago and let it go. Not knowing if it would be found. Not knowing if the act meant anything beyond the act itself. Trusting the underworld to hold what the surface world had made too dangerous to keep.
I thought about the Mayor’s face.
I picked up my pack and I stepped through.
What was on the other side was not the underworld. I want to be precise about that, because imprecision in these matters leads to the kind of mysticism I have always been uncomfortable with. It was not Xibalba. It was not death or the country beyond death or any of the things the cenote was supposed to open onto. It was Mexico. Specifically, eventually, after a disorientation that lasted perhaps ten minutes and felt like much longer, it was the outskirts of Puerto Vallarta at dusk, the Pacific audible beyond the buildings, the air warm and salt-heavy and full of the smell of grilled corn.
The portal behind me was a seam in a crumbling stucco wall between two buildings — visible, if you knew to look for it, as a slightly irregular line in the plaster, the kind of thing you would walk past a thousand times without seeing. I pressed my hand against it. Solid. Closed. The hillside above Vancouver on the other side of that wall, sealed away.
I stood in the warm evening of Puerto Vallarta with my pack and my recorder and the understanding, arriving slowly and with full weight, that the instrument was not done showing me what it could do.
The cenote is not a hole in the ground. I know that now. It is a place where the membrane between the world you know and the world beneath it becomes thin enough to pass through. What I had opened in the hillside was the same thing — a thinning in the membrane, a temporary passage between the surface world and deep time. The portal does not go to a fixed place. It goes to wherever the recorder wants it to go, which is to say wherever the situation requires, which is to say I have no more control over the destination than I have over any other aspect of the music that moves through me rather than from me.
I am the passage, not the navigator.
I have since learned to trust this. I did not trust it then. I stood in the warm Puerto Vallarta evening with the stucco wall solid behind me and the Pacific audible ahead, and I felt the precise vertigo of a man who has just understood that the ground beneath him is not ground in any conventional sense but membrane, and that membrane, under the right conditions, with the right instrument, opens.
I bought a quesadilla from a street cart because it was the most solid and ordinary thing I could think of to do. I ate it standing up, watching the city arrange itself into evening, and I thought about what kind of man steps through a hole in a hillside without knowing where it goes.
The same kind, I decided, who jumps into a cenote.
The same kind who is still not done.